Lunch: Salto del Laja
The day's one real pause comes at Salto del Laja, a set of four waterfalls dropping up to 35 meters over volcanic basalt where the Río Laja carves its canyon, right alongside the highway between Los Ángeles and Chillán, roughly the midpoint of the day's drive north. It's one of the most recognized roadside stops in the country — a cluster of restaurants and artisan stalls has grown up around the falls, and the short walk to the main viewpoint costs nothing to enter. Trout is the thing to order here, pulled from the Laja itself and served grilled or smoked at any of the restaurants clustered near the main lookout, before the afternoon's drive resumes.