Ilhabela is an archipelago in its own right — 82% protected as state park, with more waterfalls than any other municipality in Brazil (locals say there's one for every day of the year) and a reputation as the country's sailing capital, host to one of South America's biggest regattas each July. It's also known, less romantically, for its borrachudos — small biting flies that make repellent a standard part of any visit — a detail worth keeping in mind for the waterfall later in the day.