The day begins with a late departure and ends deep in the Patagonian steppe, well north of the mountains that have defined the last several days. It is a long transition — from the trekking capital of Argentina to a quiet administrative town in the middle of the province — and the drive earns it.
The Drive North
The departure from El Chaltén comes at 10:00 am, after time enough for breakfast without rushing. Fuel up at the YPF station before leaving town, as the next reliable stop is a long way off. The road heads north and east, away from the massif, running through the valley of the Río de las Vueltas before climbing onto the open pampa. The granite towers of Fitz Roy recede in the mirror, losing definition as the distance grows, until they are just a smudge of rock on the horizon.
The RN 40 north of El Chaltén is paved and in reasonable condition as far as Tres Lagos, roughly 120 kilometres away. The landscape shifts quickly from the lenga beech belt at the foot of the mountains to the dry, wind-raked steppe: coirón grassland, scattered calafate scrub, the odd ñandú picking its way through the brush. The road runs alongside the Río Chalia (also known as the Shehuen) for a stretch — a watercourse that drains eastward to the Atlantic, cutting against the general Andean logic of the region. The sky is vast here in the way it only gets when the mountains are truly behind you.